In legal/street mode all kits are limited to 25km/hr.
In offroad mode the Neutron R has a top speed of around 50km/hr.
In offroad mode the Hadron MkVII has 2 speed options, the slow wind tops out at 65km/hr and the fast wind around 80km/hr. Both have significantly more torque and reach their top speed faster than the neutron kit.
How far will I get on a charge ?
This is one of those “how long is a piece of string” type questions.
The range is technically unlimited, afterall it’s still a bicycle that you can pedal under your own power.
How far you’ll get depends on how heavy you are on the throttle and how much you pedal – if you just use it for assistance up hills, if you use it at a low level all the time to take some of the load off your legs or if you race around at full throttle the whole time riding it like an electric dirt bike. Range is also determined by how hard you motor is working otherwise, whether it’s a smooth flat path or a rocky steep offroad track. Tyres will also affect efficiency, thin, slick tyres pumped up hard will use less power than fat knobbies at low pressure or anything else inbetween. Rider weight is also a factor and naturally a 50kg lady is going to go further than a guy potentially more than double that weight. The speed winding of the the motor will also determine how much power you use to maintain a given speed. The faster you go the more power you’ll consume and so the less range you’ll get. If you keep the speed down to around 30-40km/hr you can get really good economy while still covering a good amount of ground.
A total ball park figure for power consumption is around 20 watt hours/km.
15 whr/km if you’re keeping the speed down and pedaling a bit, 25whr/km if you’re having a bit of a thrash on the double track and a little north of that if you’re riding like a maniac. You can probably expect higher power consumption when you first get the bike as you’ll be zooming around everywhere grinning like an idiot
Battery watt hours are determined by the voltage of the battery and the AH rating. The 12.5ah Hadron MkVI battery for example is around 950 whr so would get around 45km range
How will I know what size battery I need ?
Using the above as a guide you can gauge roughly what size battery you’ll need to get a desired range. The cycle analyst also lets you see exactly what is going on with power consumption in real time so if you look like you’re being a bit heavy handed you can back off a bit and ensure you make your destination without working up a sweat.
Can the battery be made bigger later if I need it ?
You can always buy an additional battery but unfortunately our batteries can’t be rebuilt. They are professionally constructed with study tab welding, gluing and structural reinforcement and these same things that make them strong and reliable also prevents any disassembly or reconfiguration. Like most EVs the battery in an ebike kit makes up a significant chunk of the price so you don’t want to be buying that twice if it can be avoided. If you have a specific range requirement (eg a commute to work) and you’re cutting it close you’re best to upsize the battery slightly to allow some wiggle room. Alternatively buying a second charger to recharge at work (or where ever) is a good option and cheaper than a battery upgrade. It also keeps the weight down as you’re not lugging any extra weight than you need.
Should I discharge the battery all the way down before recharging ?
No. Unlike some older battery chemistries that had a memory effect lithium ion isn’t like this and infact you will get significantly more cycles from the battery if you shallow discharge it. As a general rule of thumb it’s ideal to not discharge a battery past 80% capacity on a regular basis. It CAN do it of course but it will shorten the life of the battery. So for a 10ah battery this means ideally keeping it to around 8ah discharge. Or if you think you’ll need 10ah to get to work, go with a 12ah battery.
What bikes are suitable for your conversion kits ?
Most mountain bikes are suitable as long as they have a 135mm rear drop out. Most bikes ranging from those in cheap department stores to heavy duty downhill bikes and suitable however really hardcore downhill bikes with 150mm bolt through rear axles are not compatible without significant DIY modifications. While a $100 kmart bike is technically compatible with our kits it’s not advisable due to low quality components and frame construction that is potentially unsafe at high speeds. Disc brakes while not 100% necessary are highly recommended and if you’ve got cheap disc brakes upgrading the front ones (which do most of your hard braking) are a worthwhile investment.
I have a $4000 bike and it has a 135mm drop out. Is it suitable for a conversion kit ?
If it’s carbon fibre, sadly not. Carbon fibre is great for light weight strength but the drop outs are not designed for the torque these motors can produce. Steel frames are ideal but alloy frames are fine too at modest power levels. Steel torque arms are required for Hadron kits to reinforce the frame
I have a 29er / 650b / [insert new flavour of the month wheel size]. Are the motors compatible ?
The motors come laced standard to a 26″ mountain bike rim. These fit most bikes and should go on a 29er or 650b bike as well but will obviously be visually a little smaller. The motor can be relaced by your bike shop into either your existing rim or a new one that it suitable. The motor has 36 spoke holes so any 36 hole rim is suitable. We recommend our friends at Glow Worm Bicycles in Marrickville for custom hub motor lacing.
Are the motors disc brake compatible ?
Yes, the motors are compatible with ISO 6 bolt disc brakes. Most cheap cable operated brakes are suitable. Some more expensive hydraulic brakes may not fit due to them being too wide to clear the motor case. This can usually be overcome by fitting a washer or 2 under the disc to space it out a little.
Can I keep my rear gears ?
The motor is compatible with thread on freewheels and depending on your bike and motor choice there should be enough room for a 6 or 7 speed freewheel. Even with a single front chain ring this is plenty of gears once you have electric assistance. You’ll probably rarely take the bike out of the top few gears with our more powerful kits. An 8-10 speed may fit with slight stretching of the dropouts but again depends on your individual bike. If your bike uses a rear cassette these are not compatible.
What about the cheap kits I’ve seen on ebay ? How come they’re much cheaper than yours ?
The short answer is you get what you pay for.
Ebay and other online sales websites are littered with cheap ebike parts that seem like a bargain until you find that your motor fails with the first bump as you leave your driveway. Or your battery dies after 2 weeks, or blows up, or only delivers half the capacity it should, with your only recourse being to return it to China for $200 in shipping, only to find Australia Post won’t even let you ship lithium. These are just a few of the issues we’ve experienced firsthand and sadly these are not isolated cases. We’ve been blowing or otherwise throwing out a heap of stuff over the last 5 years and weeding out the good quality from the garbage. We’ve pushed the limits and found out how to get the best performance but with safety and reliability and this is what we use in our kits.
How do I fit the motor to my bike ? Is it hard to do ?
The motor comes laced into a complete replacement 26″ rear wheel, simply unbolt your existing rear wheel and bolt the motored wheel in its place. Mount the controller and battery to a rack or your frame, fit the throttle and brakes, plug in all the wiring and away you go.
See this tutorial video for a step by step installation walk-through: